Capo Testa in Spring time
We drove with Leo and Marzia to the northernmost tip of Sardinia, Capo Testa, a point jutting into the Mediterranean adjacent to the town of Santa Teresa. Parking the car at a trailhead, we set off on a wide, paved track through flowering bushes. Capo Testa is a protected natural area with a sizeable population of tortoises, and as we paused to take a photo, one of them ambled onto the path.
We ascended to a spot overlooking a turquoise bay. Granite outcrops towered in front of us.
We ascended to a spot overlooking a turquoise bay. Granite outcrops towered in front of us.
"This is where they quarried granite that was used for columns in Rome," Leo told us. "They cut the rock up here at the top and then moved it down to the water to put it on some boats."
After crested the ridge, we began picking our way down through the boulders, speculating on how tons of granite could be moved downhill using primitive methods. About halfway down the slope, a huge block of granite, perhaps fifteen feet on each side, lay in our path. It was girdled with an evenly spaced line of holes.
"They would try to find a seam in the rock," Leo explained, "and then make these holes. Then they put some wood in the holes and add water. This would usually make the rock break. But it didn't work with this piece, so they left it here."Continuing down the hill, we came upon crude encampments—shelters huddled under rock overhangs, ovens crafted from cobbles. A young man with a brown, leathery face and dreadlocks sat on a boulder as if he were in his own living room."There are hippies who live here," Marzia told us, "but also some people just come here on vacation to camp without paying. Sometimes people say you must be very careful or they will steal your things or hurt you, but actually they are pretty harmless."
"They would try to find a seam in the rock," Leo explained, "and then make these holes. Then they put some wood in the holes and add water. This would usually make the rock break. But it didn't work with this piece, so they left it here."Continuing down the hill, we came upon crude encampments—shelters huddled under rock overhangs, ovens crafted from cobbles. A young man with a brown, leathery face and dreadlocks sat on a boulder as if he were in his own living room."There are hippies who live here," Marzia told us, "but also some people just come here on vacation to camp without paying. Sometimes people say you must be very careful or they will steal your things or hurt you, but actually they are pretty harmless."